Building a Greenhouse Table with an Optional Low Tunnel

With the start of spring, a structurally finished greenhouse, and both grow light stands at full capacity, it was time to build a greenhouse a table.

But here’s the crazy thing- I didn’t have spring weather to build this table. It was not only a bit cold, but it was snowing on both days of the build. I was that determined to build this stand to get some plants out into the greenhouse as I run outside in a snow whirl to start cutting some boards.

Designing My Greenhouse Table

Inside the greenhouse, from the east wall to the west wall, measures 10’ long. I wanted to use every inch that I could. I created the length of the table to be 10’ long.

From the south wall to where the door would open is about 3’. I wanted to provide 11” for three rows of 1020 trays. This would create the table’s width to be 33” leaving about 3” before the door.

Although the top boards of the table will be 120” x 33”, the cement block foundation prevented the legs to be that far apart. From the east wall with the block foundation to the west wall with the block foundation measures 9’2”. The south wall also had a block foundation, but the side towards the center of the greenhouse would not. On the back side of the work bench, I needed to take off 3” from the 33”, leaving me with 2’6”.

As the base of the table would measure 2’6” x 9’2”, the top of the table would measure 2’9” x 10’. It fits 16 1020 trays.

Cutting the Top Boards

I honestly thought the snow had stopped, but I started cutting these boards as it was still overcast and by the time I was almost done cutting, it was starting to snow again.

Along with the snow covered boards, I gathered my Ryobi circular saw, a square, tape measure, and a shop pencil. The boards were originally about 13’ long. They’re not store bought, but some salvaged wood. I like using boards that we have on hand versus buying new at the store, if I can. It cuts down on the cost of projects big time.

Next, I lay the boards on Bauer saw horses. Notice here how the boards are attached together, which was a bit of a challenge to work with, but it was entirely doable.

I planned my bench to have 10’ boards for the tabletop. Then, I measure the board, make a mark, create a straight edge with the square and then cut using a circular saw. I cut a few boards and then my husband cut a few to hurry up the process during the snow storm.

With the boards cut, I left them outdoors. We were working on the table base inside the garage. The base would be heavy enough to carry, so I figured once the base is indoors, the top boards can then be arranged and screwed onto the base.

Building the Greenhouse Table’s Base

With the legs of the base, we cut four 4×4 boards into 36” sections. These were some salvaged wood as well, but in worse shape than the top boards. My husband took the time to trim off the bottom of the boards to create an even bottom.

Next, we measured 2’ x 3’ boards to be 9’2”. They could have been about 3” longer, but this really guaranteed that the legs would fit between the cement block foundation. With two legs on the ground, we placed the 9’2” board on the top and attached with a screw.

We repeated with the other side, and then the other board.

Then, we cut another 2’ x 3’ board into two pieces of 2’6” long. With me holding the two long sections up, my husband screwed in the two 2’6” boards. Each board was attached with two screws. This created a base with four legs and boards holding the top together.

Adding Support Boards

To hold the 9’2” boards together, as well as to provide strength for the top boards, we added three supporting boards to the base frame. We cut three 2”x3” to a length of 2’3” to fit snuggly inside the current frame.

I wanted these centered and even. So, I used a ruler to measure the length, then divided that by two. I marked that before creating a mark on the right ¾” from the original, and same to the left. I repeated these steps on the other side. For my husband to drive a screw through the 9’2″ board and the support board, I was able to line up a supporting board on both sides. He passed me the impact driver and the screw so that I would add a screw to the other side.

We repeated measuring and finding the center, making our marks, adding the screws and boards, to then finally having three support boards, creating four open sections of the table.

Moving the Table’s Base Frame

The next morning, it was windy, cold, with snow still on the ground. I absolutely wanted this project to be done. Since it wasn’t a blizzard, the greenhouse table frame was moved from the garage to the greenhouse.

Moving it inside the greenhouse was a bit tricky. Since the table essentially took up the whole length of the greenhouse, the door once opened wouldn’t shut unless the table was pushed out of the way. So, it needed to be pushed off to the north side. The side where all the leftover supplies currently were in storage. Putting it at an angle did the trick to get the greenhouse door shut.

Then, I moved the base frame to its longtime home, along the three windows along the southern wall.

Adding the First Table Top Board

First, I needed to measure how much overhang I needed on both the right and left sides, as well as the back side. The back side was easy to figure out, needing just 3 inches of an overhang. The top board on the back is 5” wide. 3 out 5 inches will overhang, while two inches will be on the base frame. So, I go ahead and measure and mark where 2” is on all the support boards.

Before I can screw this down, I measure subtract the length of the base from the length of the table top boards. Then, I divide this by two, which gives me an equal overhang on both the right and the left sides of the table. It was about 5 1/2” overhang on both sides.

I mark these, line up the board to the markings for the side as well as the markings for the back side. Then, I add a screw through the top board and into the base board.

Adding the Salvaged Boards

The other table top boards have already been connected by a short 2” x 4”. The issue with this is that the 2×4 is hitting the base board. So, the top boards are not touching the next board as close as I wanted. To solve this, I used a circular saw to cut off pieces of that 2×4 in order for it to fit snuggly.

I then line it up with the previous board along the edges, and add the screws through the top board to the supporting board.

I repeated with the other two sets of boards. The one we couldn’t use the whole 10’ length. It was cracked, so we cut it at 9’8”, which there will still be room enough for the trays of plants to rest and balance on the boards.

With the last set of salvaged boards, I made sure we made the edge flushed with the edge of the front. This was a little bit tricky to do and above my skillset. So, my husband used the circular saw to trim and cut off the 2×4 that attaches the boards together, but only part way to where we needed it. This allowed us to slid those boards flush to the edge.

Adding a Cold Frame to the Table

With the first nights of needing to use this table, I was worried about the lower temperatures. The greenhouse takes the chill off from the wind, but it is not as warm as the basement or garage. To prevent any damage to the first plants, we created this cold frame made from salvaged PVC pipe that still had some bend to it. My husband had some pipe hooks on hard that he attached with screws to the table top.

I have been saving this clear piece of plastic for over two years now. I usually regreat keeping something I don’t use for so long, but I just had the plan to create this simple cold frame at some point. With it being in the greenhouse, I am hoping that it will stay for years, rather being weathered outside.

We can remove the PVC pipe, as well as the plastic when it is time to, as well as put it back together when needed in the cooler temperatures.

Trial the First Night

The same day I finished the greenhouse table, I put twelve plants underneath the cold frame. I was ready to walk into the greenhouse the next day to see the plants a little wilted either from the cooler night time weather or from the heat being in the cold frame and an unheated greenhouse.

They look the same as they did the night that I put them in. Seeing this just gave me so much excitement that I brought out a total of three standard flats of cool hardy plants for a night in the greenhouse. All went well. And as it seems, I figured the cool hardy plants didn’t need to be under the extra plastic layer with some decent spring temperatures.

Last Thoughts

The greenhouse table just turned a building structure into what it was designed to be. The greenhouse didn’t feel like a greenhouse until I moved and finished the table. Even then, it felt more complete when plants were placed inside. I had an anxiety to get plants inside as soon as a I could. The plants are what makes a greenhouse a greenhouse, in the same way that food makes a kitchen a kitchen, a chicken makes a chicken coop a chicken coop, and a tractor makes an equipment shed an equipment shed.

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